Beat the Texas heat from the inside out.
Open-cell and closed-cell spray foam, attic air sealing, and crawl space encapsulation—scoped for your home and your energy bills, from first walkthrough to final seal.
The right insulation for the house and the heat.
From a single hot attic to a full envelope seal, each job starts with where your home loses energy and what the fix should deliver.
Open-cell spray foam
Expands to fill every gap—a strong pick for attics and interior walls where air sealing matters most.
Ask about open-cell →
Closed-cell spray foam
Denser, higher R-value per inch, and a moisture barrier in one—ideal for crawl spaces and exterior walls.
Ask about closed-cell →
Attic insulation & air sealing
Seal the top of the house first: air sealing plus insulation where Texas heat does its worst.
Ask about the attic →
Crawl space encapsulation
Close the vents, seal the ground, condition the space—less moisture, fewer pests, easier HVAC.
Ask about encapsulation →
Old insulation removal
Out with the compressed, contaminated, or pest-damaged stuff—start clean before new insulation goes in.
Ask about removal →See the plan before the foam starts.
Good insulation is more than spraying. The approach should account for air leaks, ventilation, moisture, and how your HVAC actually runs.
Start with the atticShare the situation
Tell us the service, property address, timing, and what’s driving the call—high bills, hot rooms, or a new build.
Walk the home
A useful estimate looks at attic access, existing insulation depth, ductwork, air leaks, and moisture risk.
Review the scope
Confirm the foam type, R-values, air-sealing details, and ventilation plan in writing before scheduling.
Spray and verify
Review the finished work together—coverage, depth, and cleanup—before we close out.
Built for a market that fights the heat.
The service-area focus covers Dallas–Fort Worth and the close-in metro, with room for dedicated neighborhood pages as search demand is validated.
Questions worth asking.
A clear estimate should make the work easier to compare—especially when foam type, R-value, and air sealing can change the scope.
What does spray foam insulation cost in DFW?
Most homes land between $1,500 and $3,500 depending on the area size, foam type, and access. Closed-cell runs higher per inch than open-cell but delivers more R-value plus a moisture barrier. A written estimate should break down foam type, coverage area, and R-value so bids are comparable.
Open-cell vs. closed-cell—which do I need?
Open-cell is softer, expands more, and is usually the economical pick for attics and interior walls. Closed-cell is denser, adds rigidity, resists moisture, and fits where space is tight or moisture is a concern—like crawl spaces and exterior walls.
How much can it cut my energy bills?
In Texas heat, an under-insulated attic is often the biggest energy leak in the house. Sealing and insulating it can cut cooling costs noticeably—many homeowners see 15–30% lower bills, though results depend on the home’s starting point and HVAC.
How long does installation take?
Most single-area jobs—an attic or a crawl space—finish in a day. Whole-home projects can take two to three. You’ll need to be out of the work area during spraying and for a short re-entry window afterward.
Are there rebates or incentives?
Some Texas utilities and federal tax credits have applied to insulation and air sealing over the years, but programs change. Ask us what’s current—we’ll flag anything your project may qualify for.
Start with the rooms that never cool down.
Describe the house, the hot spots, and the bills. The insulation plan can take shape from there.